In today’s world of wearable devices, it might be hard to believe that just a few decades ago mechanical watches were the most convenient way to track time. Unlike quartz watches and smart watches, mechanical watch work without batteries or other electronic components. So, lets dive deeper to know what is a mechanical watch? and how does it work?
A mechanical watch uses a movement to keep time, while a quartz watch uses a battery. The mainspring is wound and retains the force to drive the balance wheel. The gear train transmits power and calculates vibrations in seconds, minutes and hours. From there, the escapement releases the gear forward and moves the hands at a constant speed. It is the escapement that makes the occasional ticking sound in mechanical watches.
The seconds hand on mechanical movements is curved, unlike quartz watches, which have individual scales. Some high-end mechanical watches are specially designed to keep this time with a mechanical movement that showcases the art of watchmaking, but is not commonly seen.
Why a Mechanical Watch is high in demand?
“In a world that encourages the purchase of expensive but ultimately disposable electronic products like mobile phones, mechanical watches may seem like an anachronism, but they really aren’t.” Electronics occupies an important place, especially in watchmaking, but also in mechanical watches: they speak directly to the history of horology, which goes back hundreds of years.
Mechanical watches also have something far more personal than quartz. Whether it is a watch that you wind every day or a watch that runs on a rotor, there is a connection between man and machine. Without this human element, the watch would not work. It takes something with a human heartbeat to bring its own Libra to life. You don’t have it with the battery.
Life of a Mechanical Watch
With the help of these gems that reduce friction within the movement, well-maintained watches are free from drops and water damage, and mechanical watches can last several lifetimes. Patek Philippe is known for its Generations campaign. “You don’t actually own a Patek Philippe. They just take care of the next generation.”
Even broken watches can be repaired and will continue to work for years. Watchmakers train watchmakers and provide watch repairs and regular servicing to extend the life of your watch. Most watches produced today have parts that can be easily replaced if necessary. For vintage watches, it can be difficult to obtain original parts. The more complex a watch becomes, the more care it requires when maintaining it.
Mechanical Watch Movements
Both self-winding and hand-winding watches are considered mechanical watches. The movement has a tension spring that needs to be wound periodically.
Manual vs Automatic Wind Movements
An automatic movement has a rotor, which is an oscillating weight attached to the movement. Rotors are typically half the size of the exhibition floor. Over the years, however, brands have begun to introduce micro-rotors, which are inserted into the movement instead of sitting on top of it, allowing for thinner movements.
You can see micro-rotors in brands like Bvlgari and Patek Philippe. Automatic watches are wound by moving rotors when worn, which can be seen through the back of the display case.
In a manual wound watch, this winding is done by the user manually winding the mainspring by turning the crown. These traditional movements are the oldest in watches and can be called hand-wound movements.
Automatic watches can also be manually wound. If your watch stops before you wear it, we recommend winding it 20-40 times to start the movement before putting it back on your wrist.
Power Reserve
If your first mechanical watch isn’t a Patek Philippe Grand Complication, don’t worry about perpetual calendars, tourbillons, moon phases and minute repeaters. At the entry level, power reserve is important. This refers to how much energy can be stored in the movement, affecting the exact time it takes to decelerate.
The most popular is his 40-hour power reserve, but thanks to Tissot he gets an 80-hour option at an affordable price. Some brands put a power reserve indicator on the dial, but this is not the case. So if you are unsure please ask before purchasing. If you’re willing to spend a little more, you can also consider a watch with a chronograph. That’s where knowledge of the Valjoux 7750 comes in handy. It’s a sign of quality, but it doesn’t drive the price up.
Top 5 Economical Mechanical Watches
Some of the economical mechanical watches that may fulfill your needs are listed below:
Seiko 5 SNK805
The Seiko SNK805 features a sleek matte green dial that keeps things simple and an inner ring for the hour markers. The outer ring contains numerals for minutes and seconds, as well as a day and date complication at 3 o’clock.
The 38mm stainless steel case is discreet and light, to say the least. Inside the watch is a reliable 7S26C mechanical movement, which brings the approximate price of the watch above US$100. Paired with a green nylon strap, this mechanical watch is awesome.
Invicta Pro Diver 8926
The Invicta Pro Diver is known in the watch world as one of the most affordable alternatives to the Rolex Submariner. In many respects, this statement is true. First, the Invicta Pro Diver costs around $100. Its affordability itself is a point to consider. The watch features his 40mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance and a matching stylish stainless steel bracelet.
Behind the black dial is the NH35A mechanical movement, which you can see in action through the exhibition-style caseback. In terms of looks and features, the Invicta Pro Diver is the best. Granted, this isn’t a real Rolex, but it’s definitely a great option for a mechanical watch, especially if you’re on a budget.
Timex Marlin Automatic California Dial
Timex describes the Marlin Automatic California as a watch inspired by vintage models from the 1930s to 1940s. With a classic look and hand-wound movement, the Marlin Automatic California exudes sophistication and appeal.
Its rose gold case is elegant in every sense of the word and lends a sense of luxury to the watch. Beneath its attractive black dial lies a proven automatic movement equipped with 21 jewels and a 40-hour power reserve. All in all, it’s shocking that such a beautiful and reliable thing only costs around $250.
Tissot Everytime Swissmatic
At around $400, the stylish and affordable Tissot Everytime Swissmatic from the T-Classic collection is one of Tissot’s best entry-level mechanical watches. This watch offers the best of Swiss watchmaking with a clean, minimalist aesthetic. The jet-black dial offers an attractive contrast with the silver-toned indexes, long hands, and slim stainless steel case.
This elegant look is rounded off with a classy black leather strap. Apart from its sophisticated appearance, another striking aspect of the Everytime Swissmatic is its movement. The self-winding movement has a power reserve of up to 70 hours and is accurate to +/- 10 seconds per day. It’s very difficult to find a mechanical caliber with this kind of performance at such an affordable price.
Seiko Prospex Samurai SBDY019
The Samurai Save the Ocean is a Seiko watch that needs no introduction. Several aspects make these Prospex divers iconic: design, heritage, reliability and price. To be exact, the Seiko SBDY019, also known as the SRPC93, costs around $500.
Created in collaboration with Fabien Cousteau, the grandson of world-famous marine biologist Jacques-Yves Cousteau, his enigmatic SBDY019 has a 43.8mm stainless steel case and is made from the same material.
Paired with a dark matching elegant silver bracelet. The true star of the show is, of course, the watch face. Its uneven blue gradation emulates the imagery of sea water, which is thematically appropriate given that this Seiko Samurai is a diver’s watch. His 4R35 movement that powers this mechanical watch is highly reliable and has manual winding and hacking functions.
4 Things to Consider Before Buying a Mechanical Watch
There is nothing wrong with mechanical watches. Many factors influence when deciding which mechanical watch to own and wear. You should consider the following points:
- Movement Type (Automatic or Manual)
- Price
- Power Reserve
- Design of a Mechanical Watch (Case and Strap)
See this article if you want to know everything about a mechanical watch. Here, a mechanical watch is explained in details along with animations.
